Full Service Builds
We do all different-sized projects from frame-off restorations to fully custom chassis. We are happy to help you with all of your projects, just bear in mind that we schedule out in advance, so be sure to contact us as soon as possible.
No, as we have no way to accuratley estimate what a build will cost. It’s extremely difficult to predict all the problems inherent to an old vehicle. Each project is custom; therefore, we do not operate as a traditional auto repair shop. We’re more like a custom truck boutique. We bill $105.00 per hour for labor, plus additional cost of parts. We will be able to provide a reasonable attempt at a ballpark price, but it is by no means an estimate.
We can build anything you want, as long as it doesn’t compromise safety, style, or integrity. Occasionally, custom parts can extend the time, but a full, custom build will typically take about 12-16 months.
We provide a 6-month parts and labor warranty on the parts purchased and installed by Fat Fender Garage. After 6-months, we will get replacement parts that are under a manufacturer’s warranty. Customer-supplied parts are not covered under our warranty. Our warranty requires that general care and maintenance be performed regularly. Retail parts purchased from us and installed elsewhere are covered solely by the manufacturer’s warranty.
Yes, we are happy to do upholstery on any project. We can make your vehicle’s interior sing! Currently, we have quite a fast turnaround time on upholstery projects.
We collect a deposit for parts and bill weekly for labor. We require payment within seven days. If a payment is late, we will temporarily halt work on your vehicle until the payment is received, and we may have to advance another project ahead in the queue.
We only have so much shop space, so we do need to maintain momentum with builds. Contact us if you have budget constraints. We may be able to work in stages.
This is a case-by-case situation. Keep in mind that we do not warranty any paintwork or bodywork that didn’t begin with bare metal, as we cannot guarantee that the older paint won’t chemically react and have issues. All manufacturers have products that are designed to work together; mixing various products may cause paint failure.
Yes, in fact most of our clients are out of state. We provide weekly updates with pictures that you can access online throughout the build. Remember, you can always contact us with questions. We accommodate all types of clients, from involved and particular to hands-off. Let us know how we can best engage with you during the project.
PBxFFG Chassis
Ford Trucks ranging from 1948-1979, and Chevy Trucks from 1947-1987.
Level 1 is a coilover suspension and is our tallest ride height which will provide a stance slightly lower than stock. Expect some of the top of the tire to tuck into wheel wells (depending on wheel and tire size). Level 2 is a coilover suspension and is generally 3” – 4” lower than level 1 and will require modification to any bed floor to accommodate the lowered stance. Level 3 is an air ride suspension and when aired up, the ride height will resemble the ride height of level 2. Level 3 however will allow the ability to lay the truck and frame nearly on the ground when the air bags are completely let out. Level 3 will also require modification to any bed floor to accommodate the lowered stance.
The minimum wheel size we recommend is no smaller than 16” depending on brake rotor size.
Our iconic color showcased in most of our pictures and videos is a dark charcoal gray (we refer to this as FFG Gray). This color has amazing contrast and really allows for other colored components to stand out when paired together.
Products
The spring rate of an air spring is directly influenced by its height. When you increase the height of the air spring, the air pressure inside it also increases, resulting in a higher spring rate. However, this contradicts the desired characteristics for most performance applications, where low and firm spring rates are preferred for handling, while high and soft spring rates are desired for mobility. To address this, there are a couple of methods that can be employed.
One approach is to adjust the mechanical installed height of the air spring, either by making it adjustable or modifying its configuration. This allows for a change in the relationship between spring rate and vehicle height. Another method to reduce the spring rate is by incorporating an accumulator tank connected in parallel with the air spring, commonly known as a "ping tank." The addition of such a tank can effectively lower the spring rate.
When you purchase a complete Air Suspension System from AccuAir, you can be confident that the spring rate and overall ride quality have been optimized specifically for your application. AccuAir and our Industry Partners are dedicated to providing the ideal balance between ride quality, handling characteristics, and ease of installation for your vehicle.
Ensure your load is evenly distributed across your vehicle, including passengers, fuel, cargo, trailers, and other items. With an air suspension system, you can conveniently adjust the height of your vehicle on the go, providing benefits such as an enhanced appearance, improved obstacle clearance, and easier loading of your belongings.
Regardless of the load you're carrying, an air suspension system delivers exceptional ride quality.
Feel confident in experiencing a smooth and controlled ride, irrespective of the weight you're carrying, by opting for an air suspension system. The progressive spring rate of Air Springs plays a crucial role in delivering optimal handling characteristics, ensuring you enjoy outstanding stability and performance.
We include the rollover safety vent in every fuel tank purchase. The rollover safety vent is a simple ball check valve that allows air in and out of the tank as needed. In the event of a rollover, the ball will drop and block the vent port from leaking fuel. Additionally, it also has a small float inside that will help reduce the amount of liquid entering the vent hose from fuel slosh during normal everyday use.
We recommend one of three sending units to fit your needs; A 0-90 OHM fuel level sensor for aftermarket gauges, a 75-10 or 240-33 fuel level sensor if you are using stock gauges with our Coyote Swap tanks.
The standard bed fill tank will come with a threaded cap and neck as shown in the pictures which sticks up approx 3”. It is not intended to come through the bed floor, it will be just below the bed floor which will require you to install an access door in the bed floor. You will then open that door reach through and take the cap off the tank to fill it. If you add the Floor Fill Option you will receive a tank with a 2” Hose barb on the tank and the flush bed floor fill kit which will be mounted into your bed floor then you connect the tank via the supplied rubber hose and clamp.
The tank will stick down approx 7” at the deepest point near the axle and 5” closest to the bumper.
YES, Boyd builds every tank with the same EFI Baffling and EFI provision so you can add our In-tank pump assembly any time or add any Aeromotive product using our adapter plate.
The use of GUNIWHEEL™ is strictly limited to shop or lot environments and is not permitted for road use. It is designed exclusively for off-road applications and should not be used on public roads.
Please note that GUNIWHEEL™ is intended for use in controlled areas such as shops or lots, where its specific features are beneficial. However, it is not designed or approved for use on public roads due to safety and regulatory reasons.
Always adhere to local laws and regulations regarding the proper use of equipment and vehicles to ensure the safety of yourself and others. When using GUNIWHEEL™, it is important to follow the manufacturer's guidelines and recommendations for its intended purpose, which is limited to shop or lot use only.
To ensure proper installation and avoid any potential issues, it is recommended to torque lug nuts up to a maximum of 50 lbs. It is crucial not to over-tighten the lug nuts beyond this limit.
Additionally, when installing GUNIWHEEL™, it is advisable to use Guniwashers. These washers are specifically recommended to be used in conjunction with the installation process. The Guniwashers play a significant role in ensuring the proper and secure attachment of the Guniwheel™.
By following these guidelines, you can help maintain the integrity of the installation and ensure optimal performance and safety when using GUNIWHEEL™.
Instead of using a complete bed wood kit, the recommended approach is to install a strip of wood on each side of the bed beneath the angle strip. These strips should be 3/4" thick and at least 1-1/2" wide. They should also have holes drilled to align with the holes in the angle strip. These wooden strips will act as spacers between the cross sills and the angle strip, ensuring that the bedsides are positioned correctly over the cross sills.
To attach the cross sills to the frame, they should be secured at the designated bed-to-frame mounting points. The rear sill should also be attached to the frame. Simply pass the bed-to-frame bolts through the cross sills to fasten them to the frame. All cross sills should be connected to the angle strip, which serves to hold the bedside in the proper position relative to the frame and cab. Remember to place the 3/4" thick wooden board between the angle strip and the cross sills as instructed.
While it is not necessary to remove the bed for the wood installation, some individuals choose to do so for easier access to all the bolts involved. Removing the bed also provides an opportunity to inspect for any rust or damage that may be present.
If you decide not to remove the bed, it is important to support the bed sides when removing the old wood. Lift each side slightly to remove and replace the edge boards. The center boards, on the other hand, can be removed and replaced without the need to lift the bed sides.
Whether you choose to remove the bed or work on it with the bed in place, exercise caution and follow appropriate safety measures to ensure a smooth and successful wood installation process.
MAR-K wood is kiln dried, not treated. Kiln drying is a process of heating the boards to reduce the amount of moisture to 10 percent for oak and 25% for pine. Kiln drying helps prevent the boards from cracking and warping after installation.
The structural integrity of aluminum is much stronger than copper/brass. This allows us to make larger tubes which can push a larger volume of coolant. This also allows us to have more fins in contact with the tubes (16 fin per inch!). All of these factors contribute to greater heat dissipation and a more efficient radiator.
Because aluminum is much stronger than copper aluminum core manufactures are able to make the tubes up to 1.50" wide, opposed to .50" wide for a copper tube. The benefit of this extra tube width comes from the additional contact that is created between the fins and the tubes, as there are less spaces or voids between the tubes (due to a fewer amount of tubes).
It's true that Aluminum dissipates heat significantly better that Brass and only slightly less than copper, but the major benefits of aluminum radiators are in the design differences. If you take a look at a cut away section of copper brass radiator that is 2.25" thick, then multiply the number of tubes in a row by the width of the tubes you will find that there is a total of 1.50" of "contact" between the fins and the tubes on every row. Now, do the same evaluation on a 2.25" aluminum radiator core and you will find that there is 2.0" of "contact". That is 33% more "contact" than the copper brass. This is critical as the fins accomplish a large percentage of the heat dissipation. The less contact between the fin and tubes, the less effective the radiator will be.
A important benefit of the wider, aluminum, tubes is that a larger volume of coolant is now placed inside the core, where the heat dissipation is occurring. Between the additional contact between the fins and tubes, the additional fluid in the core, and the additional contact between the fluid and the tubes you can expect to see at least a 25% increase in the heat transfer capabilities of an aluminum radiator over a copper/ brass of the same thickness
No, running a lower temperature thermostat will not bring down engine temperatures, it only controls OPENING TEMPERATURES.
The only "benefit" is that you have now increased the amount of time it will take for your vehicle to reach operating temperature. A thermostat is supposed to modulate, just like the thermostat in your house turns the furnace on and off. When the coolant reaches the thermostat setting it opens and lets coolant go through the radiator. The radiator, if capable, will drop the temperature down to a point the thermostat modulates.
We suggest using EVANS NPG Waterless Engine Coolant with your Wizard Cooling aluminum radiator.
Yes! Today's electric fans have the capability of pulling and/or pushing more air through your radiator while you're at a stop light than your original motor driven fan can pull through while driving at 50 miles an hour. Another fact to consider is that by replacing the motor driven fan with an electric fan YOU WILL GAIN HORSEPOWER.
Wiring your electirc fan package yourself can be very easy. You'll need to use one or two Fan Wiring Harness/Kit to wire your fans and depending on the fan(s) you'll be using. Then you can simply follow the instructions provided by the electric fan manufacture. You can find easy to use PDF instructions for both Spal and Maradyne Fan wiring in the PDF containers below.
O2 Sensors are best installed within the first 6" of the exhaust side of the collection or mixing point.
So if you purchased a set of our headers with V-Band flanges, the O2 sensors are best installed in the first 6" of the exhaust on the opposite side of that flange.
ECUs can be mounted in various locations, such as behind the seats, inside the glovebox, or under the dashboard. However, our specialized ECU Boxes are specifically designed for installation in the engine bay. These custom boxes are engineered to seamlessly bolt in through the ECU's designated holes, resulting in a sleek and tidy appearance for the engine bay. To ensure optimal performance and longevity, our ECU boxes feature carefully placed ventilation holes that allow heat to escape from the ECU, effectively managing temperatures.
Our ECU boxes are highly weather-resistant, designed with durability in mind. Crafted from rust-resistant aluminum, they provide excellent protection against corrosion. The added powder coating further enhances their ability to withstand harsh elements, offering an additional protective layer. These features combine to create a long-lasting solution that not only cleans up your engine bay but also ensures your ECU remains safeguarded and reliable for the long haul.
General
Currently we prefer to use Advanced Adapters Atlas or bulletproof205 np205 transfer cases depending on the application and what adapters are available. You can purchase a 4x4 version of a 6R and 10R80 directly from a Ford dealership or LKQ
Choosing between a return style kit and a returnless style kit depends on various factors, including your personal preferences, the specific hot rod build, and your intended usage. Here are some considerations to help you make an informed decision:
In Conclusion:
Ultimately, the choice between a return style kit and a returnless style kit comes down to your preferences, technical expertise, and the specific needs of your hot rod build. Both systems can work effectively, but the returnless style kit offers a more modern and efficient solution with potential long-term benefits in terms of reliability and performance.
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